From the Road, a photo from Badakhshan, East

Photographer's Note

I have mentioned in the previous post that after a short stay in the border town of Eshkashim, me and my guide Azim left for the Hindu Kush. What you see in this photo is the next mountain range we reached a couple of days later, the Pamir and the friendly inhabitants of the village Sarhad-e-Broghil, The kind of friendly people I met all the way during my trip.

To be more precise, that was me, Azim and our driver. I抳e written quite a lot about the border crossing and also about the quality of the accommodation and food. It抯 now time to tell you a little bit about the transport.

We left Eshkashim in a battered, but reasonably new Toyota Landcruiser. 揥ow�, I thought, but also 揇amn, is this the way I抦 going to travel in Afghanistan? What am I going to write in my travel diary?� And, last but not least 揥hat will my TE friends think when I admit I travelled in such luxury�.

The luxury didn抰 last long. On the first slightly steep hill the Toyota packed up. Azim made a phone call (we were still close to the border and we all had Tajik sim cards; if something like that happened the following day we would have been stuck, unable to communicate with the outside world) and informed me a replacement vehicle would shortly be sent from Eshkashim. And indeed, half an hour later my new car arrived. I couldn抰 believe my eyes � it was still a Toyota but� a Corolla. What followed, was the most bumpy 2 days� long drive in my life. But part of me was happy as at least I had a story of travel hardship to tell (little did I know that upon my return to Eshkashim I would be so ill that I wouldn抰 really need any other stories).

Another problem, for a solo travelling woman, were toilet stops. This may be the case of 搕oo much information� for some TE members but just to say � ladies beware. The landscape is mountainous but the valley is flat and wide. There is not much vegetation (certainly no dense bushes, more like an odd tree or two). And you travel with two men who probably know, but don抰 quite remember (or are too chivalrous to admit it) that female bodies function in a similar way as male ones in terms of input and output, so it抯 not enough to give your female guest water� Ok, I think I抳e said enough for you to get the picture.

When we reached the furthermost village of our trip, I was told that the driver would leave us and drive all the way back to Eshkashim without us. There is some strange law in Wakhan (not dissimilar form the rules of hiring horses in the Himalaya) that requires travellers to hire cars in the villages along the way, to benefit the local communities (great, but what a waste of cars and fuel; not that it had much impact on the environment though � there are very few cars in that neck of the woods). To be honest, tired of the bumpy rides and having been promised a Landcruiser for my return journey, I was glad. So imagine my dismay when, on the morning of our departure, I found another Corolla waiting for me. Just before you ask � practically all cars, at least in that part of Afghanistan, are Toyotas of some description. Usually imported and driven with foreign registration plates they are the 21st century camels.

I did travel in a Landcruiser on the last day of my journey, the day when I arrived back to Eshkashim. If you would like to get an idea what it抯 like to travel in a car in Afghanistan, you are welcome to watch this 18 second� video on youtube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpC_XzUy-0c&feature=youtu.be

Two more photos in WS.

PaulVDV, holmertz, tyro, PiotrF, jemaflor, COSTANTINO, pajaran, jean113, alvaraalto, jhm, Royaldevon, macjake, ktanska, Hansaphotos, CLODO, adramad, fotka has marked this note useful

Critiques | Translate

PaulVDV (63546) 2020-06-22 12:22

Hello Kasia,
I didn't know (or I have forgotten) that Massoud was a great supporter of the traditional customs that made women stay at home. I seem to remember that he was often portrayed as the last freedom fighter in the country. So a positive image in Western eyes.
I tend to think that the inconvenience when traveling is made up for by the beautiful scenery as your main photo shows.
Part of the landscape and the snowy slope are beautifully lit by the sun. The landscape is a mixture of ruggedness and beauty.
The horses are very nice elements of the picture and both riders provide good depth in the image.
I hope you soon felt better when you were in Tajikistan.
Best regards, Paul

holmertz (103710) 2020-06-22 12:36

Hello Kasia,
I saw some beautiful mountains in northern Afghanistan, but not along with a foreground as nicely composed as this, with a man greeting me in such a friendly way. Of course a photo like this has to go to my favourites. It almost matches the quality of the note. ;-) The WS complement the story well. As for the link, it's a great movie, but why 18 seconds? I could have seen an hour. ;-)
Thank you for your comments earlier tonight. You probably know I made that link to an old photo because you had asked for them. I could tell you that the lady with the grain in the desert wind was originally intended as a main upload, but I decided the quality was not good enough. But I quite like it.
Have a nice week, you too.
Gert

Silvio1953 (223069) 2020-06-22 12:44

Ciao Kasia, fantastic mountain landscape, lovely composition with horsemen, superb sky, wonderful natural colors, fine details, splendid light and excellent clarity, very well done, my friend, ciao Silvio

tyro (30513) 2020-06-22 13:18

Hello Kasia,

A very fine photograph of a beautiful scene as your main image and two excellent photographs in your workshop - but none can compare with your fabulous and most interesting note about your adventures on your journey from Eshkashim into the Hindu Kush.

As a bit of a car buff, I realise that Toyotas are usually incredibly reliable - I had one once and it never let me down though I never drove it across this sort of terrain - but your drivers were obviously very helpful and determined to get you to your destination even though they might not have been quite so sympathetic to your more personal requirements.

Your account of your journey is wonderfully descriptive and your main photograph does indeed illustrate the friendliness of those whom you met on the way as well, of course, of giving us a splendid view of the landscape through which you passed. It is a splendid photograph taken in lovely light with fine colours and stunning detail and sharpness. I love the warm sunlight on the yellow grass and bushes, the shadows of clouds on the snow-covered slops of the mountains and how the mountain tops contrast so beautifully with the blue sky and its puffy white clouds. And, of course, the friendly greeting from the horseman in the foreground.

Two excellent workshop images too: two different Toyotas and two different drivers, perfect records shots of your journey.

Oh, yes, and that little video - it's super - but I have to agree with Gert - I could have watched it for ages too!

A wonderful upload for TE which just has to go to my favourites.

Wonderful!

You take care.

Kindest Regards,

John.

emka (158936) 2020-06-22 14:01

Witaj Kasiu,

Wspaniałe gł體ne zdjecie, ciekaw dwa w Warsztacie i oczywiście fantastyczna notka. Niesamowicie wyglądają te ośnieżone gory wyrastające tak nagle. Jaka jest ich wysokość? Ciekawi jeźdźcy, jeden nawet Ciebie pozdrawia.
Tak jak czytałam Twoja opowieść, to przypomniała mi sie moja przygoda w Kazachstanie. Krajobraz by troche podobny, g髍y w oddali tez były bardzo wysokie. Przez 4 dni po bezdrożach jeździłam z obcym facetem - kt髍y był i przewodnikiem, i kierowcą. Baza turystyczna to jakieś kwatery we wsi z wyg骴ka na zewnątrz. Ale zupełnie nie pamiętam jak było z toaletami. Często chodziłam całkiem sama, więc pewnie sobie z tym radziłam. Chyba zajrzę do moich zdjęć. :).
czytałam że loty odwołane. Przykre. I słyszę w TV, że pakiety nie dochodzą.

Pozdrawiam serdecznie

Małgorzata

PiotrF (56142) 2020-06-22 14:34

Czesc Kasiu
Swietny reportaz z tego kraju. Skupiłas sie co prawda na sprawach zwiazanych z podr�żą, ale można też poznac obyczaje czy zobaczyc piekny krajobraz.
Czy kazda toyota miała taki sam zestaw muzyki? jeśli tak to była to ciężka i wyboista droga ;)
pozdrawiam
Piotr

GyurMaster (25055) 2020-06-22 14:38

Hello Kasia,

You are a rare visitor to the site, but when you post a photo you post something that would sell as cover for the yellow frame magazine! As in other cases, your notes are equally interesting as your photo, which I had to fave.

Regarding the toilet line: there is a fetish-line started by Will and continued by Malgo...Not if I mind it, I only need some time to take some toilet related photos! :)

Best Wishes,
Gy

lousat (140058) 2020-06-22 15:18

Hi Kasia,your adventures are always nice to read and are an important part of every post,and the pic are wonderful too,the main is a masterwork,while the 2 WS with cars give us a bit of modernity from this remote country,very well done! Have a nice day and thanks,Luciano

lucasgalodoido (27698) 2020-06-22 15:54

Ol� Kasia,
primorosa essa composi玢o, tudo em perfeito equil韇rio. Boas imagens complementares e nota tamb閙.
Parab閚s e Abra鏾,
Lucas

SteveH (8220) 2020-06-22 21:57

Hi Kasia, This photo has everything - interesting locals, snowy mountains and cloudy blue sky, and technically all good too. Together with your interesting note it makes for excellent CV19 lock down dreaming material. cheers, Steve

jemaflor (148334) 2020-06-22 22:53

Hi Kasia,
Nice photo and a well balanced composition with horses, men and this beautiful desert landscape, charming snow covered peaks, pleasant contrast with the warm light, perfect sharpness, tfs.

COSTANTINO (117908) 2020-06-22 23:17

Hello dear friend and have a nice day
fantastic photo with great originality
and authenticity
I red carefully your useful notes
in order to understand
better what this photo presents
regards
Costantino

ifege (49573) 2020-06-23 0:01

Hi Kasia
Superb photo of this spectacular scene with a fascinating note.
cheers
Ian

jean113 (28325) 2020-06-23 5:14

Hello Kasia, what a journey! And what a note, excellent.
A super sharp shot. It looks very cold, but we do not know the altitude that you had reached here.
Beautifully composed. The light across the landscape is wonderful.
Thanks for sharing, kind regards, Jean.

alvaraalto (42868) 2020-06-23 5:56

Hello Kasia,
A beautiful photo that beautifully shows the atmosphere and ruggedness and the inhabitants of this border area.
Extra interesting because of your extensive blog.
Two surprising workshop photos that show that the modern world has also arrived here.
Excellent work
Have a nice day, groet Rob

abmdsudi (95869) 2020-06-23 10:02

Hi Kasia
What an amazing view when we are small in front of nature! I like everything about this; the comp, the tones, detail and contrasting colors at high altitude. The most attractive is the presence of the horsemen and 'feel' of being there at the right time. The mild light is sublime, crisp with the high snowy mountains in the BG capped by the clouds. A gorgeous shot, tx to your good info notes
Congrats.
Best regards

jhm (211738) 2020-06-23 10:10

Hello Kasia,

Real a very nice picture with the horsemen with a lovely background of the mountains
You chose a perfect angle with depth and perspective.
Lovely sharp and clear photographed.
Very well done, TFS.

Best regards,
John.

Royaldevon (86526) 2020-06-23 11:18

Hello Kasia,

I look forward to reading your notes, but the hint of serious illness does not fill me with anticipation!

This is a quite an amazing photograph!
Apart from the use of a coloured photograph, this could be a scene from centuries ago!

The riders are very strongly placed in the frame, with a natural connection for a sense of depth and perspective.
The connection leads us on, towards the awesome background of steep, inhospitable mountains!

The light is excellent, to bring out the subtle colours and textures.

Travelling in a Toyota Corolla doesn't appear to be an attractive option!

My warm regards,
Bev :-)

rychem (72187) 2020-06-24 8:34

Krajobraz jest fantastyczny, a jezdziec pozuje jak widze z checia, z tego co czytam w Twojej notatce, to nic nie jest pewne w tej podr髗y :)
Nie jest to kraj z pierwszych miejsc mojej listy do odwiedzenia
pozdrawiam Ryszard

macjake (98544) 2020-06-25 9:53

Hi Kasia
oh man, i've missed a few of your shots, this one here is just too good to pass up. First off, I looked and read your WS photos, great additions for sure. For a second I was thinking THIS horse was the ride that picked you up hahaha. what a great looking shot and great story. and you're right, travelling in total luxury in such countries is counter productive in my opinion. the surprises along the way are the stories and the memories that'll last forever. wonderful TE post...suddenly I feel like buying a Corolla.
cheers
Craig

ktanska (45116) 2020-06-27 0:52

Hi Kasia,
Awesome wild landscape and lovely light. The man on the horse looks quite surprised seeing you on this remote place. This place must be quite high up with all that snow on slopes in October.
Kari

mkamionka (75217) 2020-06-27 23:37

Czesc Kasia,
ale urocza scenka! Piekny kolorowy gorski krajobraz a do tego jezdzcy niczym z przed wiekow!
Trudno sobie wyobrazic ze zdjecie zrobione zostalo z corolli :)
Pomimo ze nigdy nie bylem w Afganistanie Twoja notka przypomniala mi pare przygod z dzikich szlakow. W Dolinie Smierci w Kalifornii mozna latwo znalezc sie z dala od cywilizacji. Pamietam takim moment kiedy w koncu znalezlismy sie wsrod ludzi a teren byl tak bardzo plaski a ja potrzebowalem... privacy. No coz szedlem na tyle daleze ze ziemia chyba zaczela sie zaokraglac...
Inna przygode na szczescie juz nie moja opisalem tutaj:
https://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Africa/Egypt/Inland/Aswan//photo1564896.htm

Doskonale swiatlo i zywe naturalne kolory.
Pozdrawiam serdecznie,
M

Hansaphotos (11381) 2020-07-05 13:16

Hello Kasia

A magnificent photo, well accompanied by the note. A crisp and clear photo with splendid colours and light. The people and horses are well placed in the frame. The snowy mountain makes a majestic bacdrop for the scene. Excellent work:) TFS.

Greetings, Erling

CLODO (45118) 2020-07-13 8:06

Hi Kasia

What a journey! Except the modern cloth and shoes, this image could be timeless, expressing well the life of the dwellersin this rough nature. Far away from the tourists tours!
Have a nice day
CLODO

adramad (73496) 2020-07-20 5:31

Hello Kasia.
Very brave to travel to this doubtful area of security, but the photo is sensational with the two riders who seem to greet you and that impressive and beautiful background of the snow-capped mountains.
Very good color, in some tones, very attractive.
Good light management and superb sharpness.
Very well done. My congratulations.
All the best and have a good start to the week.
Luis.

Miguel82 (47110) 2020-07-26 13:28

Kasia, a common scene from that remoted place : two horseriders. The landscape has almost no trees. The weather must be cold and windy here. The snow capped mountains appear majestically in the bg. Fine colors, good sharpness, regards.

jmdias (116601) 2020-07-27 10:27

kasia

the main post is amazing, I liked a lot the landscape and the personages on it. excellent view. The WS were nice too and give us a chance to see the local daily life. nice note too. TFS this part of the world with us. were you doing some special job in those dangerous lands ?

take care

jorge

fotka (9145) 2020-08-12 9:17

Witaj Kasiu,
Wspaniale zdjecie z Afganistanu pokazujace codzienne zycie mieszkancow na tle wspanialych osniezonych gor.
To sliczne zdjecie uzupelnia ciekawy reportarz o tym jak ludzie zyja w innych czesciach swiata.
Kolory, swiatlo, ostrosc bez zastrzezen.
Pozdrowienia,
Zbigniew

BennyV (34780) 2020-08-31 12:32

SUperb picture, superb note...the kind of post that brought me to TE in the first place, all those years ago. Top! The backdrop is majestic, the people friendly...and really good photography too.

The shot makes me hope that at least next year we'll be able to travel again... There is a big world out there!

Benny